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Surfing as a way of meditation 

I completely believe surfing can be used not only as a great way to exercise and be outside but is a great way to find inner peace.  What I greatly unappreciated about surfing is its effectiveness to drown out every other thought in my head, regardless of positivity and allow me to live in the moment. Once once I strap into my surfboard, nothing else matters but paddling out past the break and catching a wave. This sometimes can quite a difficult task for me because I have a torn labrum and on any given day my arm can just not be feeling it and make right arm practically go limp after 10 minutes of paddling. However though this never discourages me that I wont make it out there. I have spent 30 minutes trying to paddle out and I learned that sometimes it is not always my effort or physical ability that’s the problem but just the time and place I’m doing it. And as any surfer knows, when surfing there is flat out just some areas of the surf that will be much easier to paddle out through then others. It was only through surfing did I ever realize that this answer to my problem could ever even be an answer at all. I have used this metaphor to help me solve and look at problems in the future.

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